Coco Bonsai

The site is here: COCO BONSAI (pics are also from there).
It is a blog showing many interesting palms in bonsai form, but mainly coco palm (Cocos nucifera) and bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis).

Coco bonsai and then Bottle Palm bonsai




And so I started digging for more information. Mere hope, that I could one day have such bonsai kept me rolling and rolling, til I found an e-mail address on one of those people (from Indonesia).
I asked him, wheather he could tell me how to do palm bonsais, but he said that he couldn't speak English well and that he would give me a manual in Malay (?).

And so I had the first manual in my hands. I translated it with google and started reading. It was gibberish, to be honest, so I didn't have any succes understanding the key, 3rd step.
But then 2 users from Indonesia came in, namely Kom and birdie. I aksed them for their help and they both helped me very much. Now I have the real deal, manual on how to make palms grow like bonsai.

Here it is in original:

Quote:

Langkah pertama dimulai dengan memilih bibit yang baik, yaitu bibit yang benar-benar tua, akan lebih baik jika buah tersebut tua di pohon, karena dapat dipastikan bibit akan mempunyai persentase hidup lebih tinggi. Dalam hal ini, jenis kelapa yang saya pilih adalah kelapa yang buahnya kecil, diantaranya jenis kelapa gading dan hibrida. Alasan memilih kelapa yang jenisnya kecil adalah lebih cepat tumbuh, sehingga mempercepat proses pembuatannya, selain dari segi estetika tempurung kelapa yang kecil lebih bagus dan indah. Langkah kedua, Bibit kelapa yang sudah dipilih dipangkas sedikit ujungnya dengan pisau atau gergaji. Hati-hati, jangan terlalu dalam memotongnya, karena akan mengenai tunas baru. Lebih baik dilakukan sedikit-sedikit. Fungsi pemotongan ini adalah agar jika disiram, air mudah meresap, sehingga tunas dapat tumbuh dengan cepat. Setelah itu, bibit diletakkan didaerah yang basah, usahakan setiap hari disiram, minimal 1x, lebih sering lebih baik. posisikan kelapa sesuai rencana pembentukan . Jika menghadap keatas, maka posisi tempurung akan berada dibawah tumbuhnya tunas dan akan terikat calon akar, jika ditaruh miring (horizontal), posisi tempurung akan ada disamping bakal pohon. Terserah anda, menginginkan bentuk seperti apa. Siram bibit sampai muncul beberapa helai dahan. Langkah ketiga, Jika sudah dirasa siap tanam (kira-kira sudah tumbuh 2-3 cm), boleh ditanam di pot atau wadah lainnya yang dirasa bisa dipakai sebagai tempat. Media tanam bisa memakai tanah yang mengandung humus, bisa dicampur pupuk kandang atau sejenisnya. Proses selanjutnya memulai membentuk bonsai. Jika tumbuh satu kuncup daun, bagian yang membungkus kuncup daun tersebut (pembungkus adalah berasal dari kuncup yang lebih tua), disayap pelan-pelan dengan cutter atau pisau. Sesuaikan ukuran dan ketajaman pisau dengan ukuran tanaman. Tujuan penyayatan ini adalah agar daun tidak tumbuh menjulur besar dan menjulang, tetapi sebaliknya dapat tumbuh kecil dan melengkung seperti tanaman yang sudah tua. Ini adalah hal yang utama dalam pembuatan bonsai kelapa. Lakukan hal ini sesering mungkin, bisa 2-3 hari sekali. Hati-hati, kuncup yang masih muda sangat mudah patah, jika patah resikonya adalah membusuknya tunas dan akhirnya mati. Hal ini tetap dilakukan selamanya, jika tidak dilakukan maka tanaman tetap akan kembali ke bentuk dasarnya yang menjulang dan besar. Langkah keempat, Setelah tanaman kira-kira berumur 3-4 bulan dan akarnya sudah lumayan kuat, sedikit demi sedikit, sabut kelapa bisa dibersihkan / dikelupas. Tentunya harus hati-hati karena resiko terpotongnya akar. Jika dirasa sudah bersih, boleh sedikit di poles agar tempurung kelihatan indah. Langkah kelima, Perawatan dan pemberantasan penyakit. Perawatan keseharian adalah menyiram minimal 1x sehari, lebih sering lebih baik, asal tidak sampai terjadi penggenangan air di pot, karena bisa membusukkan akar. Pemupukan bisa 3-4 bulan sekali dengan pupuk kandang atau jenis pupuk buatan yang lainnya (misalnya urea tablet). Saran saya lebih baik pupuk alami, karena dapat bertahan lama dan tanah tidak menjadi keras. Hama yang biasa timbul adalah semut. Kehadiran semut bisa merusak calon daun baru maupun yang sudah tua. Tanaman akan terhambat pertumbuhannya, dan jika dibiarkan akan mati. Pembasmian bisa dengan insektisida atau di beri kapur semut.

The text could be translated (and I'm fairly sure it's correct now - at least the procedure, the English used in there is however still very crude, as it is Google translation mixed with about 2 or 3 other translations and I don't really have the time to rewrite it... - if somebody wants to help, please, after you translate it, put the good English text in your post as quote... thanks) in English as:

Quote:

The first step begins with choosing a good seed. Ideal seed for bonsai type palm should be really old (from a ripe fruit), it would be even better, if the fruit came from an old tree, because then, some varieties have a higher percentage of survival In this case, the type of coconut that is usually chosen for Bonsai Kelapa should be from small fruit (and thus quite small seed)... The reason for choosing a small coconut is more rapid growth that speeds up the whole bonsai process, as well as the aesthetic aspect of a small coconut shell, which is much more beautiful than large seeds. In the second step, trim the ends (back parts) of the seed with a knife or saw, but be careful not to hit the endosperm. The function of this cutting step is, that the seed can absorb water faster and then the shoots can grow much faster as well. After this is done, place the seeds in humid conditions and sprinkle it every day with water at least once (more times a day is even much better). Then the whole positioning and future Bonsai Kelapa plan begins, it is important, because once the seed starts shooting, it will be too late to change its position. If the seed faces upwards, then the plant will be located above the shell and growth of shoots and roots of the candidates will be limited. If it’s put horizontally, the position of the shell will have a tree next to the candidate seed. Third step - If you think that the planting is well done (plant has grown 2-3cm), you can transfer it to a pot or any place that can be used for potting. Soil needs to be high in humus and can be mixed with poultry manure. The next step is shaping the bonsai, immediately as the new leaf bud emerges. The older leaves that cover the new buds should be removed (gently) with a cutter or a knife. Cutters and knives sizes must suitable; according to the size of the plant. Trimming the leaves prevents the leaves from growing large and bloomy but makes the leaves grow curvy and small (or wrinkle) like naturally old. This is the most vital step. Do this as often as possible, approximately once in every 2-3 days. Be extra careful when handling the new buds as it is easily broken and the risk is that the buds can easily get infected, rotten and die out. These steps need to be carried out from time to time. Failure to do so makes the plant return to its original shape, growing large and bloomy. Step three, if it is already ready for planting (approximately 2-3 cm is growing), can be planted in a pot or other container that can be used as it is the place. Media planting can use the land that contains humus, can be mixed with manure or the like. The process then start bonsai form. If you grow one leaf bud, the bud is wrapped up in leaves (wrapper is derived from the bud that are older), disayap slowly with a cutter or knife. Adjust the size and sharpness of a knife with the size of the plant. Penyayatan this goal is to ensure that leaves do not grow big stick and rise, but can grow small and curved like the old plant. This is the main in the making of bonsai. Do this as often as possible, can be 2-3 days once. Be careful, young bud is easily broken, fracture risk is if the shoot membusuknya and eventually die. This is still done forever, if not done then the plant will be back to basically form a tower and large. Fourth Step – For plants that reach the age of 3-4 months, and as its root system grows well and strong, the coconut husk can now be cleaned and ripped off. Extra care need to be done to prevent from cutting off the roots. The coconut shell can be polished to give a nice shiny look. Fifth Step – Caring and preventing diseases. Watering once a day is minimally sufficient although can be done frequently. Avoid flooding the pot and make the water covering (trap) it as it can make the roots rot. Fertilize it using poultry manure or synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are advisable. Ants and bugs can appear sometimes and can damage the new and even the old leaves. Plant may get stunted and may not grow well and die. Insecticides can be used to prevent insect infestation.

Anyway, this article is said to work by many; for many of us it could also be fun to learn this new, yet interesting technique.

If you wanna ask me, which palms can be bonsaied, the answer is simple: All palms. But those, that grow less vigorously, have thinner stems... are easier to shape.

I also found references to semi-bonsai palms (normal palms grow large, semi-bonsai only to 2m and bonsais only up to 1 or 1,5m). So if anyone found a new way, how to make semi-bonsai palms (one man from India does it, but he refuses any communication), I'm all ears.
GOOD LUCK and please post the pictures of your newly growing/trimmed palms in this thread.

Sumber : bananas.org

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